UNICLIC is a revolutionary system for installing laminated flooring without using glue. Uniclic uses an ingenious form of -tongue and groove to click the

panels together. The UNICLIC system enables you to work 50% faster than with traditional, glued laminated flooring, and because there is no glue, Uniclic

is much easier and cleaner to work with. To achieve the best -results and get the most our of your warranty it is essential that you following the instructions

closely and use only the -following UNICLIC ACCESSORIES:

• UNICLIC is not suitable for use in damp spaces such as bathrooms and saunas.

• Check the panels in every pack before and during installation. Defective panels must never be used.

There are two ways to click together panels with the UNICLIC system:

groove on tongue method is only necessary in a small number of special situations. Place the panel

at a 20-30° angle to an already installed panel. Move the

together laying flat. PLEASE

NOTE! You will need a hammer and the SPECIAL UNICLIC TAPPING BLOCK. NEVER USE ANY OTHER TAPPING BLOCK. This may damage the panels. The

2) TOOLS FOR INSTALLING THE FLOOR

Besides the traditional tools used for installing laminate flooring, such as a hammer, saw, crowbar or a pinchbar with a protruding

edge to use the hammer on,

and spacers (1-8 mm (0.039”-0,315”)), it is essential that you use the UNICLIC TAPPING

BLOCK. Use any other tapping block and you are sure to damage

the panels

during installation. Use a fine-toothed handsaw, a jigsaw or a crosscut saw to saw the panels. To achieve a clean cut the pattern side should face

down when you use a jigsaw and up when you use a handsaw or a crosscut saw.

3) THE BEST PREPARATION

Allow the laminate panels to acclimatise for 48 hours in the original sealed pack in the room you intend to install them. Place the packs in the middle of the

room, never against a wall or in a corner, and never directly on the floor.

4) THE BASE FLOOR

The base floor must be perfectly clean before installation. It also needs to be sufficiently level and stable. Any unevenness greater

than 2 mm/m (1/12” /

39”1/2) must be smoothed out. Depending on the situation, remember the following:

• The moisture content of the concrete must be less than 2.5% (CM method). Newly poured screed must be given at least one week to dry for every centimetre

(3/8”) of thickness up to 4 cm (1”1/2), and 2 weeks for every centimetre (3/8”) of thickness over 4 cm (1”1/2), with sufficient

ventilation (6 cm (2”1/2)

screed therefore needs at least 8 weeks to dry).

• If there is underfloor heating, the moisture content must be less than 1.5% (CM method). You do need to follow special installation

instructions. Please ask

your dealer for more information.

• The UNICLIC floor panels can be placed on top of existing damp-proof floor covering (PVC, linoleum, etc).

• Remove any damp-open floor covering (carpet, needle felt, etc) first.

• Remove any floor covering first.

• Ensure that the plank floor is sufficiently stable. Nail down any loose parts and install a levelling floor if necessary.

• The moisture content of the wood must not exceed 10%.

• The crawl space under the plank floor must be sufficiently ventilated. Remove any obstacles and provide sufficient ventilation

• Install the new panels at ninety degrees to the planks.

5) THE UNDERFLOOR: THE UNICLIC UNDERFLOOR SYSTEM

It is vital that you use a levelling underfloor to smooth away any unevenness in the base floor. Always use a damp-proof underfloor.

Use either the combined

Quick•Step damp screen (minimum thickness 150μ) with a Uniclic underfloor or a Quick•

Step combi-floor (with integrated damp screen). Always follow the

installation instructions that come with the underfloor.

6) CORRECT PLACEMENT

Wood is the primary constituent of UNICLIC laminate floors. Room humidity can vary according to season, so it is vital that the floor is able to expand and

contract. The floor may expand up to 2 mm per metre (1/12” / 39”1/2). Obviously, the larger the surface area, the larger the play required. The floor has to be

able to expand or contract in ANY direction. To allow this, the expansion gap at walls needs to be at least 8 mm to 10 mm (1/3” - 3/8”). This gap is also necessary

wherever there is a through pipe or a threshold. Larger surface areas require a wider gap under double walls for example. Remember that the floor may

move in one direction. Provide expansion gaps under doors etc wherever possible. These gaps are covered with a profile attached to the base floor rather than

the laminate. You can install the tiles in any direction. Always start at one of the corners. Install the tiles from left to right unbonded (with a continuous seam)

between each individual room if the floor is to be installed in several rooms without a break.

This is covered with a fitting expansion profile. An extension joint

is also recommended if the floor extends more than 12 metres (13.2 yards) in a single room.

7A) THE FIRST AND SECOND ROWS

To get the best effect your tile floor should be installed symmetrically in the room. The tiles along the edge should be the same width along all the walls. To

ensure you realise this symmetry, be sure to follow these instructions: Place the fist tile in the left-hand corner of the room (around 15 cm (5,9”) from the wall)

that they form a single

line when you click them together. Minor inconsistencies can be corrected with the tapping block. To do this, place the tapping block

1 2 3 4

5

5

6

work out the length of the sawn tiles F as follows.

Measure the breadth of the room as indicated in figure 2. B1 is from the first tile and B2 from the last tile.

… cm (B1): 62.4 cm = …… (C1) (decimals of C1 = D1) … inch (B1): 24.57 inch = …… (C1) (decimals of C1 = D1)

… cm (B2): 62.4 cm = …… (C2) (decimals of C2 = D2) … inch (B2): 24.57 inch = …… (C2) (decimals of C2 = D2)

D1 x 62.4 cm = ….. cm (E1) D1 x 24.57 inch = ….. inch (E1)

D2 x 62.4 cm = ….. cm (E2) D2 x 24.57 inch = ….. inch (E2)

[……. cm (E1):2] min 1 cm (expansion gap) = ……cm (Fb) [……. inch (E1):2] min 0.394 inch (expansion gap) = ……cm (Fb)

[……. cm (E2):2] min 1 cm (expansion gap) = ……cm (Fe) [……. inch (E2):2] min 0.394 inch (expansion gap) = ……cm (Fe)

e.g. 7 metres Æ 700 cm : 62.4 cm = 11.21 cm(C1) e.g. 275.59 inch : 24.57 inch = 11.21 (C1)

0.21 (D1) x 62.4 cm = 13.10 cm (E1) 0.21 (D1) x 24.57 inch = 5.16 inch (E1)

(13.10 cm : 2) = 6.55 cm (– 1 cm = 5.55 cm (Fb) (5.16 inch : 2) = 2.58 inch – 0.39 inch = 2.19 inch (Fb)

Angle the sawn tiles Fb and Fe into the row of tiles you have already installed. Ensure that the seam of the F tiles is at least 10‑cm (3,94”) rom the seam of the

row of tiles you have already installed. Now place the spacers b15. the wall and move the row of tiles

you have already installed up against the wall (see figure

2). Now finish the whole row of F tiles by measuring and sawing

all pieces (between Fb and Fe). When you’re done, remove the Fb and Fe tiles again and

angle all of the F tiles into each other in the manner described in figure 1b. Align these tiles with the tapping block. Now angle the whole row of F tiles into the

during the remainder

of the installation

procedure,

to secure the expansion gap.

Calculate the length of the end pieces (G’) as follows. Measure G1 and G2

[[G1 (cm) + G2 (cm)] – 2 cm expansion gap] / 2 = G’ (cm) [[G1 (“) + G2 (“)] – 0.7874“ expansion gap] / 2 = G’ (“)

e.g. G1 = 11.5 cm and G2 = 12.2 cm e.g. G1 = 4.52 inch and G2 = 4.80 inch

[[11.5 + 12.2] –2 ]/ 2 = 10.85 cm [[4.52 + 4.80] –0.7874 ]/ 2 = 4.2663 inch

G’ = 10.85 cm G’ = 4.2663 cm

The end pieces are now ready for sawing. Do not place the G1 and G2 tiles yet. We advise you to re-measure G1 and G2 every time you install a new row, as

the room with perfect right angles and the exact same breadth all down its length is yet to be built.

7B) SUBSEQUENT ROWS

as possible. First correct minor inconsistencies with the tapping block. Then angle the complete new row of tiles into the row of tiles you have already placed

that the seams of all panels join perfectly together. Also ensure that the individual rows are

aligned so that the seam of the tiles form a perfect straight line. You can do this by placing the tapping block or a crowbar at the end of the first two complete

G1 end piece, again around 10 cm (3,94”) from the start of the first two complete rows. Don’t forget to place spacers next to the G1 tile to secure the expansion

By following this procedure you can complete installation of the floor row by row. If the space between the wall and the installed

floor is too small to hit the

tapping block with sufficient force, you can place the crowbar on the tapping block and tap the crowbar.

7C) THE LAST ROW

Leave an expansion gap of 1 cm (3/8”) between the last row and the wall. Keep this in mind when you are sawing the last row of tiles.

Angle this last row of

8) FINISHING

Now it’s time to move the end pieces around the edges so that they are in the right place and to measure, saw and install the missing pieces.

You will have to angle out the first row of end pieces (Fb, Fe, etc), move them and then angle them back in again, so that the seams of all the tiles are aligned.

Now angle out the end pieces breadthwise (G1). Click them together with the H1 and H3 corner pieces to make a single row and then angle this row back in

9) PIPES

To ensure the tile hugs the pipe, work as follows:

1) Take a drill chuck with a diameter equal to the diameter of the pipe + 18 mm (3/4”) for any expansion.

2) Drill the tile at the spot where the pipe will run through it.

3) Carry on drilling to the edge of the tile to create a slit as wide as the pipe.

4) Place the tile around the pipe.

5) Saw a piece out of another tile that fits into the slit as snugly as possible.

6) Now finish with a neutral sealant.

10) UNDER DOORFRAMES

When sawing the panels ensure that the expansion gap after installation is at least 10 mm (3/8”). If you are unable to angle the panel,

use a crowbar or tapping

block and hammer to tap the panels together.

11) FINISHING

You can walk on your floor as soon as it’s installed for immediate finishing. That’s one of the Uniclic system’s major benefits.

• Remove all spacers. Leave the expansion gap completely open.

• Place the skirtings against the plastic foil projecting upwards from the floor. Never attach the skirtings directly to the floor or the floor will not be able to expand and

contract properly under the skirting.

• For a perfect finish around pipes, use rosettes or elastic paste.

• In places where profiles and skirtings cannot be placed, fill expansion gaps with elastic paste.

12) PRECAUTIONS

• Use felt or plastic caps to protect furniture and chair legs.

• Use a doormat to avoid bringing in dirt, water and sand.

• Use wheelchairs with soft rollers suitable for laminate flooring. Always ensure that other transportable furniture (sofas, pianos, etc) is equipped with castors

of a sufficient size and softness. If that isn’t possible, place protective caps under the castors.

• Ensure that humidity in the room is always at least 50%. Use a humidifier if you need to. There may be some static electricity

if the air is too arid.

13) MAINTENANCE

• UNICLIC’s smooth surface means it never retains dirt or dust.

• NEVER use wax or varnish coating on the floor.

• For dry maintenance, use a duster (oil-free) or vacuum cleaner.

• For damp maintenance, wipe with clean water with or without UNICLIC CLEANING PRODUCT. (Never use other cleaning products or detergents!) This

will get your floor very clean and give it a satin sheen. Always ensure you use a WELL WRUNG OUT CLOTH. ALWAYS WIPE DRY IMMEDIATELY until no

moisture is visible on the floor. If you do not dry wipe your floor the Uniclic cleaning product will have virtually no impact.

• WET MAINTENANCE WILL RUIN YOUR FLOOR!

• Remove stubborn stains carefully with a little acetone. Never use scouring products!

• UNICLIC is fixed onto a watertight glued HDF board. Despite its relatively moisture-resistant qualities, excess water must be removed immediately.